Yosemite National Park's granite cliffs have challenged and inspired climbers for generations. But few have left their mark on Yosemite's big walls quite like Warren Harding. Nicknamed "Batso" for his adventurous spirit and love of a good time, Harding was a pioneer of big wall climbing in the 1950s and 70s.
The Nose of El Cap
Harding's most famous accomplishment is undoubtedly the first ascent of El Capitan's Nose route in 1958. El Capitan is a 3,000-foot behemoth of granite, and the Nose route follows a prominent crack system up its center. Harding, along with his team, spent 18 months inching their way up the wall, using hundreds of homemade pitons for protection. Their ascent was a landmark achievement, proving that El Capitan was not invincible.
A Climbing Renaissance
Harding's wasn't the only first ascent he notched. He put up a total of 28 new routes in Yosemite, including the challenging "Wall of Early Morning Light" (later renamed the Dawn Wall). His bold, pioneering style, along with his charismatic personality, helped usher in a golden age of Yosemite climbing. Camp 4, the legendary climbers' campground in Yosemite Valley, buzzed with activity as climbers like Royal Robbins and Yvon Chouinard pushed the boundaries of the sport, inspired by Harding's achievements.
Harding's Legacy
Harding's influence went beyond his climbing feats. He was known for his outrageous sense of humor and his love of a party. He co-founded the now-mythical "Lower Sierra Eating, Drinking and Farcing Society," a tongue-in-cheek nod to the camaraderie and sometimes rowdy atmosphere of Yosemite's climbing scene.
Though Harding passed away in 2002, his legacy lives on. He is remembered as a pivotal figure in the development of big wall climbing. His daring ascents and infectious enthusiasm helped turn Yosemite into a mecca for climbers around the world.
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